Havana became the most important port linking the New and Old Worlds. Founded in 1519, historic Havana’s history is rich with tales of pirates, sunken ships, and conflict. In La Habana Vieja (Old Havana), the architecture, combined with its picturesque setting on the Gulf, transports visitors to centuries past.
Havana has more beautiful historic buildings than I thought possible. Styles range from Spanish Colonial, Cuban Baroque, Neoclassical, Art Deco, and Moderne. You can see influences of European, American, and Soviet design. There are five key plazas in La Habana* Vieja and many parks throughout the city.
Comprising two square miles, Old Havana has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982. We toured a portion with Lynne, an architect with the Office of the Historian of Havana. She trained with the man who worked to define and preserve the area, and who put together a comprehensive five-year restoration plan. That plan dates from the early 80s, and not much has been accomplished, but it did save the Old Town from being destroyed. Lynne told us there were 5,000 buildings in the area still needing restoration. 5,000!
We walked from the Castillo de la Real Fuerza and the Plaza de Armas to the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, the residence of the governors from the Spanish Empire era. This Castillo is one of four remaining fortifications that protected the valuable harbor. I wish we could have spent some time exploring those defensive sites.
Calle Tacón, the street in front of the Palacio, is made of wood. I have never seen anything like this before. In 1841, wood replaced river stones and stone blocks. It created a quieter, more sanitary environment for the area’s entitled residents. Buried for many years, part of the street was uncovered during the restoration in the 80s and is still maintained, now as a pedestrian area.
Housing Crisis
Today, many crumbling buildings provide housing. With no established owners (since the government seized the properties), people were able to just move in. Through the years, residents have added small bathrooms or kitchens, often undermining the buildings’ integrity and safety. Combined with zero maintenance, you can imagine the condition. Before restoration can begin, people need to be moved (and there is no place for them to go). Patchwork adaptations need to be undone before structural and restoration work can start. We did not see much graffiti, but we did see piles of trash everywhere in Havana. We were told there is no gas to run the garbage trucks, so it’s not being collected.
Social Centers of the Past
The Capitol building, built in the 1920s, with a design similar to the US Capitol, has been restored and is a focal point for the city. It is not used for government meetings because it is not large enough to house the 470 members of the National Assembly, who meet twice a year. Elected without opposition, Assembly members do not challenge the Communist regime. It is near Parque Central (Central Park), which features a prominent statue of José Martí, and is surrounded by the buildings described next.
The beautiful Gran Teatro de la Habana building was originally built by Galician (Spanish) immigrants as a social center. It now houses the National Ballet.
Across the park is the Centro Asturiano de la Habana, opened in 1927 as a community center for Spanish immigrants from the northern region of Asturias. These social centers housed a theater, ballroom, and many community spaces. My grandfather (Abuelo) was a member since 1917 and was very involved with the Centro Asturiano in Tampa, Florida which was originally a branch of the Havana club. Today, the Havana site is home to the National Museum of Fine Arts.
Hotel Nacional de Cuba
The most famous place to stay in Havana is, without doubt, the Hotel Nacional. Decades past saw it playing host to many celebrities such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Winston Churchill, Frank Sinatra, Micky Mantle, and Marlene Dietrich, to name a few. The imposing building overlooks the waterfront but is quite a distance from Habana Vieja. Opening in 1930, the front facade and lobby areas look very similar to Coral Gables’ Biltmore Hotel. As Americans, we cannot officially stay in this government-owned property, but we did get in a green ’49 Chevy to go over a take a look (check out “our” car at the front entrance).
Searching Habana Viejo
I was determined to visit the address where my Abuelo resided while in Cuba in 1920. So, with a copy of his official documents from the Havana Spanish Consulate in hand, we set off once again with trusty driver and new friend, Pita, in the green Chevy, to Calle Inquistador. Erik, who arranges cars at the hotel, jumped in and came along for the ride. I think he was questioning the mission and decided we needed a bodyguard. We found the street, a five-block spoke off Plaza Viela, one of the five iconic plazas in the Old Town.
It was a crazy ride with lots of locals trying to help and offering animated opinions. People were leaning in the windows, others shouting comments from the edges of the narrow street and behind gated doorways. At one point, the car was backing down an impassable street. When it was obvious we couldn’t drive farther, we walked to the plaza. We never found the exact address, and for a moment felt like we were on a bizarre version of the Amazing Race. Although I never felt in danger, our thanks to Pita and Erik for getting us back to our hotel without incident.
*It’s not a typo, Habana is the Spanish spelling of Havana
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