We did make our ship! Our second plane was about two hours late arriving, which put a damper on my Plan B, but at this point, we were very happy to board our ship on time (not everyone was so lucky). We had just enough time for a short walk around downtown before spending a lovely evening on the Azamara Quest.
From Delay to Departure: A Day Along Patagonia’s Edge
Early the next morning, we pulled out for a day-long, chilly journey through the scenic Beagle Channel. The morning clouds and mist lifted as the wind picked up. The reward – a gorgeous blue sky. The dark, craggy Chilean landscape is accentuated by glaciers, pockets of snow, and waterfalls. The narrow Channel is 150 miles long and separates Argentina and Chile, connecting the Pacific and Atlantic oceans at the southern tip of South America. As we continued farther up the coast, many of the peaks looked more worn-down and rounded. It surprised us that on one side of the channel, the formations were also greener.
In case you are wondering, it got its name from Charles Darwin’s famous ship, the Beagle, which explored the area from 1833-34.
The reverse of our seasons in the U.S., it’s the end of the summer season here, early fall is starting, and winter is right around the corner. I find that pictures never really do dramatic landscapes any justice, but here are a few.
This is not the first post I hoped to make about this adventure.
I’m excited to be off on a trip from the tip of South America, in Ushuaia, Argentina, cruising along the Chilean coast, and ending in Santiago. I planned a lot of nice activities in Ushuaia ahead of the cruise. But, news-flash, a union-led strike focused on labor reforms has intentionally “paralyzed” the country by shutting down all forms of domestic transportation.
When we checked in for our flight at Miami International Airport, the Aerolineas Argentinas staff was literally whispering to us that there would likely be a strike, and our flight to Ushuaia might be – or was – cancelled. They could not make any adjustments. We had no emails from the airline or updates from the State Department alert service we follow when traveling abroad. And, we had very little time before getting on a 9+ hour flight.
I quickly bought tickets on another flight departing tomorrow (I’ll sort out reimbursements and insurance later) and, after boarding, consulted with our flight crew about hotels before rapidly booking a room at the Marriott closest to the international airport. Whew. That seemed the best course of action. Once we landed in Buenos Aires, we discovered even the ticket counters are shut down until midnight tonight, pretty much everyone is on standby, and any hotel room is now a very hot commodity. The notice of the second flight cancellation arrived a few hours into our first flight. I could get no results from the links provided, and from the size of the crowd at the airport looking for answers, neither could anyone else. Two brave airline employees finally approached the crowd and told everyone to come back 19 hours later, at midnight, when the strike is suppossed to end, and no, they wouldn’t help with any accommodations. A State Department alert appeared almost 12 hours after the strike started, and focused on the huge protests expected in the center of town.
BTW – Aerolineas Argentinas’ business class was one of the very worst we have ever experienced. Incredibly uncomfortable. They only topped Icelandic Air, which holds the bottom spot, because the food was so awful.
So, we have crashed at the Marriott and are thankful we are not trying to sleep on the airport floor.
Mama bear & cubs are out for an early evening stroll! They are as happy as we are to have our retaining wall rebuilt post-Hurricane Helene. My husband was lucky to watch them in person!
Mama-bear seemed spooked by the noise from the football game coming from the open window. After enjoying the fall view of Grandfather Mountain, the healthy-looking Black bear cubs frolicked down the slope, soon followed by Mama.
The still shots in this post are special visitors from past years.
Welcome to the first day of fall, from the beautiful NC mountains!
My philosophy is to learn something new every day. And, boy, did I strike it rich when my new friend Brenda introduced me to Hart Square Village.
Located on 200 acres in Catawba County, NC, it’s close to Hickory. I had no idea we had this incredible hidden treasure. An outdoor museum. With 103 log cabins, the largest collection of such buildings in the U.S.
We visited on a cloudy, cool summer day and were impressed with the amount of ongoing restoration. The diligence to restore, preserve, and showcase things in proper historical context was evident in every building we visited.
Impact of Hurricane Helene
Even though Hurricane Helene left them with challenges, the entire staff immediately headed into neighboring areas to work on hurricane recovery in harder hit locations. Paths may be a bit muddier for the next year as they work to smooth them out, but good tennis shoes are all you need. It was an easy, relaxed walk among the trees. Such a tranquil and lovely setting.
From Nature Preserve to Outdoor Museum
Creating the site was the passion of Dr. Bob Hart and his wife, Becky. He initially purchased the property in 1967 as a nature preserve. Thanks to a patient telling him about a cabin that needed saving, Dr. Bob got another idea. Since the early 1970s, he collected and saved log cabin buildings from throughout the surrounding area. Methodically taking each log structure apart to transport and then reconstructing and restoring them in the preserve.
His wife Becky painstakingly took care of the interiors, carefully curating and staging every authentic detail. You can see just a few of her touches in the photos above. Often, the couple was able to speak with someone who had grown up in the cabin or knew ancestors who had. That local connection gave them the opportunity to display the buildings and furnishings as they were actually used.
A Passion for Preservation
Becky Hart launched the Hart Square Foundation, donating the entire property and 103 cabins to the Foundation for long-term historic preservation and cultural sustainability. Today, the Foundation is under the care and direction of the Harts’ delightful and very knowledgeable granddaughter, Rebecca. We were lucky to have her as our tour guide, and you can tell she shares their passion for Hart Square and local culture.
We were impressed by the work also being undertaken to preserve local arts, crafts, and traditions. The annual Heritage Festival in late October brings to life the Western North Carolina of the 19th century. Visitors can see everything in action, even the ancient grist mill will be working.
The beautiful Sigmon Family Education Center, built a few years ago, expanded the possibilities for public access, events, and programming. These days, about 5,000 school kids visit during field trips. Students experience what it was like to live in the 1800s, complete with a one-room schoolhouse, and lively interaction with artists and tradespeople.
Hart Square Exec Director, Rebecca Hart, demonstrates a tool used to warm up drinks or as a weapon, if patrons got out of hand. The tavern is a re-creation, inside a cabin built as a home by Andrew Jackson Yount in 1835.
More Opportunities to Visit Hart Square Village
There are monthly guided tours like we took, evening musical events, and monthly square dances. I particularly love that volunteers can even help with preservation work. After removal of the more modern chinking used to fill the space between logs, volunteers can help with traditional daubing using clay, straw, and other local fillers.
Folkways classes aim to preserve traditional skills and have offerings in quilting, canning, bobbin lacing, broom making, cooking, basket weaving, pottery, crafts, art, and gardening. It’s a full schedule, so check it out online.
We want to go back. On our 90-minute tour, we saw plenty, but just scratched the surface of what Hart Square Village has to offer. I don’t think Hart Square is going to be a secret much longer.
Getting there:
About an hour from Charlotte and about 90 minutes from Linville, in the High Country.
We drove down through Morganton, and it was a really nice country drive. There is no giant billboard or sign announcing the location, so you have to pay attention. Putting the address in your GPS might take you the back way, like it did us. If you don’t see a parking area and a large new building, you are not at the entrance. There is a free app I suggest you download on your phone with all sorts of interesting info and details.
