Most of today we continued exploring the fascinating Fès Medina. Note: I am now spelling Fès the Moroccan way.
Once again, we had a guide arranged by Audley Travel who helped us navigate this 690-700-acre maze. We have at least learned what kind of sign (hexagon) means the alley-street is a dead end.
Today is the first day we really ran into large groups of tourists. Partly because we were visiting a few of the iconic historical Muslim sites within the Medina, such as the oldest university, School of Koranic studies, and mosques.
Shopping the Souks
It was a cool, clear day, perfect for some targeting shopping. We explored shops with silver teapots, jewelry, textiles, and antiques. Our husbands may be happy to know we didn’t buy anything of significance. But, be forewarned, we are now very educated for our upcoming visit to Marrakesh.
BTW, a souk is an open-air marketplace, often organized by category of product, and usually within a Medina.
Across from the old University, we got to see an incredible centuries-old home that once housed the school’s faculty and their families. Today it has been repurposed as a beautiful multi-floor, multi-room shop with carpets and antiques. Even though we are carpet-averse, our guide said there would be no pressure – and he was spot-on. We had a delightful presentation about the carpets made by the seven families that supplied the shop, many of them Berber. It was really interesting.
After a light lunch on a terrace overlooking the city and Medina, we headed back to our beautiful Riad Maison Bleue. After the repacking needed for our early morning departure, we made one last visit into the Medina.
It proved easy to arrange an escort to get us to the right place. In this case, the Ruined Garden (cash only) deep in the Medina, for a light dinner. We loved the cats who had the run of the place and the instructions not to feed them, because the staff would. We got another escort for a very energetic walk back.
Otherwise, we’d likely still be wandering ….
There are four Impérial cities in Morocco and today we visited our third, Meknes. Dating back to its rise in influence in 1672, the massive Medina walls are still in place. Originally an expansive adjacent prison complex held captives (reportedly built for up to 30,000) in subterranean chambers, with only one way out. There are so many tunnels in the maze-like structure that French explorers were lost and never found. As a result, the complex has been permanently sealed.
We visited the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, treading carefully on the wet, slick marble tiled flooring. The intricate carvings and mosaics are of Moorish influence and you can see many similarities to the Alhambra in Granada, Spain.
You never know what is behind the walls in Morocco. Stepping through this doorway reveals a Royal Golf Club with a lovely 9-hole course. What a setting.
Vineyards in a Country that Doesn’t Drink?
Our travels today took us through pastoral agricultural country. The green rolling hills reminded me of parts of western North Carolina, but with some vastly different crops. There are neat, well-tended groves of olive trees everywhere. Flocks of sheep and their watchful shepherds are often crowded right up to the edge of the road.There are many vegetable crops and then, there are the vineyards.
We had an amazing wine tasting lunch at the Château Roslane Boutique Hotel. A Relais & Chateaux affiliate, they served an incredible meal, beautifully presented, with four wine pairings. The setting couldn’t have been more perfect and while we dined, the clouds parted and blue sky appeared once again.
Roman Occupation
Romans occupied the area for 500 years, building Volubilis in the third century. Volubilis means Morning Glory, which grow wild in the area.
The site was ravaged over the past few hundred years, but is now being restored with a vengeance. In this UNESCO antiquity, the stars of the show are the many detailed mosaics uncovered.
There were not as many cats here since a few dogs were roaming around. But our guide, Karim, won our hearts when he made a whistling cat-call and one ran full speed immediately. She was rewarded with a nice handful of dry cat food.
A good way to end our day.
I loved the comment in my post about Casablanca, that said the people in the corridor looked like they were making a drug deal. I guess anything is possible in Morocco. And, anything is possible with my content since I am posting, for the first time, strictly from my phone. So please forgive any irregularities.
Jewish History
We arrived in Fez last night and woke up to another rainy day. But it didn’t dampen our spirits as we set out with our Audley Travel-arranged guide to explore our second Imperial City and its UNESCO sites.
We headed to the Royal Palace of Fez and then literally across the street to what was the Jewish quarter. There is a lot of Jewish history here, including a big migration after the Spanish Inquisition in the 1400s. This area is now occupied by non-Jewish residents and only a small (very successful) Jewish population remains in Morocco.
Artisans in Action
It was interesting to visit a certified co-op where they make the famous Fez blue clay pottery and mosaics. That’s about when today’s weather was worst and it made it very easy to stay indoors and shop.
Medina Meanderings
The highlight for me was wandering through the narrow streets and courtyards of the old Medina and seeing just some of the hundreds of tiny shops lining the souks. An incredible array of smells give you clues to what’s up ahead (or just past). Out of nowhere, healthy large trees are growing. There are no cars, but hand carts, bicycles, motorbikes, and even donkeys will cause you to jump to the side. And there are cats everywhere! This is a cat-loving country (and they also conveniently control the rodent population).
Souks are organized by category and this afternoon we had a sample. We were, of course still with our knowledgeable local guide, a must in this crazy maze. Speaking of samples, he stopped along the way and got us several tasty treats, including sweet pastries, fried sardines, and a delicious potato-filled dumpling I need to identify!
BTW – Rose Water and Orange Water are also used prolifically here. I’m not a big fan of the Rose Water scent or taste.
Everyone who visits here sees the tannery, the country’s oldest. It’s incredibly hard work to clean, process and dye the goat, lamb, sheep, and cow skins. They gave us a bunch of mint to smell and ward off the odors, but they weren’t bad this day. I recognized this site from The Amazing Race.
Abdullah, at his namesake Thé & Café, made us unique and amazing mint tea, in the same cramped upstairs shop as his father and grandfather before him. The most surprising of the many mints and herbs included – absinthe.
Besaha (to your health)!
It was a gorgeous day for a visit to this capital city. Rabat was a surprise. We got off the expressway and took a more scenic route into the city. The six-lane coastal road was lined with tall palms and beautiful Atlantic vistas.
This appears to be a very affluent area and many of those who work here, live across the river in Sale. On one of our stops, we walked out on a long pier, and watched the surfers and crashing waves.
Once we met our local guide, Youssef, we headed for the Oudaia Kasbah and it’s bright white Medina. Originally the walls were blue (like the famous blue city of Chefchaouen), but the government wants each city to have a unique identity – so white it is in Rabat.
The 1196 Hassan Tower and columns from the incomplete Hassan Mosque are an impressive site. On the opposite side is the massive Mausoleum of Mohammed V, a former King. Matching pairs of horses guard the gates. Arabians on one side and white Berber horses the other.
Our final visit was to Chellah Necropolis, site of Roman ruins and a medieval Muslim burial ground.
The site was dominated by Storks, and you could spot them guarding their huge nests on top of most ruins.
