For fans of architecture and interesting hotels – Indianapolis continues to surprise.
In the 1920’s Indianaplis was home to what would become the largest Coca-Cola bottling plant in the world. The factory produced over 2 million bottles of soda a week and was an Art Deco jewel.
Thoughtful preservationists and developers have repurposed and restored it to a dazzling boutique hotel and an anchor of the vibrant Bottleworks District. Part of the Massachusetts Avenue Commercial Historic District, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1982. After the Coca-Cola plant was purchased by new owners and moved, the facilities were used by the Indianapolis Public Schools for almost 50 years as a bus depot, kitchen, and warehouse until new owners purchased the site in 2017 with the intent to turn it into a center for art, history, and commerce.
Today, the area has retail space, offices, residences, entertainment venues, and restaurants. The lively Garage Food Hall offers a wide assortment of elevated dining options. The centerpiece is the Bottleworks Hotel. Meticulously restored, it also manages to incorporate Coca-Cola’s red and black colors into the eclectic interior decor. The rooms are spacious, modern, and very well appointed. The following photos show some of the beautiful historic elements in the lobby and common areas. It’s another great place to stay in Indianapolis.
At the top of the grand staircase is an area with a piano and a beautifully detailed hallway leading to the boardroom (which was locked). Note the gorgeous use of terrazzo, brass, and the incredible tile work.
I just have to do a brief post about some of the food we tried on this trip. We never really had real cheese curds, so of course, we had to try some, and they were good (but filling).
In keeping with our train theme, we had dinner one night at The Harvey House in Madison. Located by the train station in the baggage and loading areas, you can even dine in a train car for special occasions. We settled on the now-covered loading platform. Part of a local tradition of what they call classic supper-club style features an array of bowls on a lazy-susan or relish trays. Really a retro type of charcuterie. It was definitely an eclectic assortment. Our first one featured lots of beets and pickles. Summer sausage and basic deviled eggs are both quite popular. It would not be complete without some version of Wisconsin cheese.
We were a bit surprised at the huge amount of food (we didn’t really mean to order) at The Old Fashioned. Located in the center of Madison near the Capitol, it’s a popular, fun spot. We took our giant pretzel and cheese to go!
BTW, at The Harvey House I went totally retro and had a perfectly made whisky sour. We shared a lovely salmon dish as our main entree (which was good we shared, because by then I had eaten a lot of beets!).
The light at the end of the tunnel. We have finally made it to our primary destination on this journey – the Lionel Railroad Club of Milwaukee. A massive multi-level layout featuring a replica of the NY Hell Gate Bridge made famous by Lionel decades ago.
We have learned there are a number of large model railroad enthusiasts in the northern parts of our country. I guess down in Florida, since we don’t have basements or cold winters, it puts a chill on the entire hobby. This Club focuses on the Lionel trains that are near and dear to my husband’s heart. He has a few of his own circling high above our study.
With close to 300 members, the Club is coming up on its 80th year in 2027. Members can store and run their own trains on the many track options. The all-volunteer organization handles all details of building, engineering, raising money, and running the Club. In 2002, they were able to get out of basements and purchase their own condo-office space for this permanent display. Smaller traveling displays are used for special shows and exhibits in the area. Even the little ones can play at their own kid-friendly tables.
Special lighting switches from day to night and back. They turned them on so we could see the effect.
Frank Lloyd Wright was not a nice guy. With a massive ego, a penchant for confrontation, and an inclination to spend more than he made, he left a trail of controversy throughout his life. But despite it all, he was one of America’s most prolific and important architects of the 20th Century.
He was born and grew up in Wisconsin, and I wasn’t going to miss a chance to see some of his work. Not having time to see everything I wanted, I settled on visits to his iconic Monona Terrace project in downtown Madison and seven properties in the area. His famous home, Taliesin, was close to an hour away, so I decided to focus on a cross-section of properties he designed for others.
The following pics try to capture the scope and feel of Monona Terrace, but don’t do justice to the scale.
The Unitarian Meeting House was Wright’s own place of worship. My time in Madison did not match the limited tour schedule or staff schedule, so I couldn’t see inside. This would’ve been the only site I could have entered; the remainder were all private homes. Designed in 1946 it was completed in 1951.
I was surprised at the state of disrepair of so many of these homes. It should be noted that several seemed to have work in progress. But most had untended yards and needed a fresh coat of paint at the very least.
The Pew house, designed in 1938, below was in the most need of work, and there was some scaffolding and piles of wood planks on site. The home faces the lake and is surrounded by larger homes. I wish some workers had been on site; I would’ve loved to know more.
The Gilmore “Airplane House” was built in 1908 and has become famous for its vertical lines, resulting in the nickname of “Airplane House.” It is considered “the essence of the Prairie School of Architecture.” Features include horizontal lines and features, sweeping eaves, and leaded casement windows.
Regarded as Wright’s first Usonian house, the Jacobs home was built in 1937 as a modern house for an average American family. It features a low profile and L-shaped plan and is very private from the street view.
The Van Tamelen Home was a prefab prototype experiment in 1956 to make Wright’s homes more affordable.
It’s hard for me to believe the Rudin House was also a prefab structure. Built a year later, in 1957, it displays the transition of his Usonian work, with large windows letting in lots of natural light. It’s reported to also feature a very open interior concept. This home is beautifully maintained and my favorite of the day.
The 1903 Lamp House was hidden behind other homes, and I almost missed it. Wright designed it for a childhood friend, and it looked in need of some serious attention. Just a few blocks from downtown and near the University of Wisconsin campus, it would be a shame to let this building fall into disrepair. The top floor was a later addition that replaced an elegant roof garden with grape arbors and a greenhouse. It was considered very modern and marked a transition from the Chicago School of Architecture to the Prairie School, which Wright called “New American”. Unbelievable to imagine today, but when built, it was positioned to maximize views of both area lakes.
