My Scottish ancestor left Fordell Castle in Fife, Scotland in the mid-1660s and migrated to the colonies. After several generations in Maryland, the Henderson family headed south to Onslow County on the coastal plains of southeast North Carolina. Today, this county is best known as the home of Camp Lejeune Marine Base.
In 1748, records show the first of my ancestors born in Onslow, a county only a few years old after being created in 1734. It was carved from Carteret and New Hanover Counties and named in honor of a British politician. For the next 150 years, through seven generations, my ancestors worked, lived, were born, and died in Onslow County. During the Revolutionary War, they fought to defeat the British. Land and business interests sometimes overlapped in the nearby areas of Wilmington or New Bern, but Onslow County remained a constant.
After following vague info about a land deed on NE Creek in Jacksonville, and ending up at what may have been an old quarry (I clearly have a lot more research ahead of me), we decided to move on to the quaint, historic town of Swansboro. The town has many charming, well-marked cottages, and the shops and restaurants all looked inviting but were (sadly) closed since it was a Monday. We settled for an ice cream break at the local candy shop. I left word at the Visitors’ Center for the area’s historic expert.
Advancing the ancestral clock forward from my first ancestor’s arrival in North Carolina to my birth in nearby New Bern 205 years later, I am now very curious about their lives. I know there was a substantial Scottish population in the area but have so far, failed to find out much in the way of enlightening information. So for now, it’s up to my imagination.
Many structures were from the early 1900s, and others, as seen on the right, date from decades earlier.
As we headed east to the North Carolina coast, we left the mountains in torrential rain with temperatures in the 50s. The forecast was not promising. But after hours of driving in the rain, when we turned south from Wilmington, the sun came out to play.
Our good friends have bought a home at Kure Beach and I can see why. On Pleasure Island, just after passing through the more touristy Carolina Beach, with its tee shirt shops, hotels, and boardwalk amusements, you enter an area of lo-rise colorful, beautifully maintained homes. Not only is Kure Beach lovely, but we were fortunate to meet our friends’ wonderfully funny and engaging neighbors (I was also envious of everyone’s amazing tans).
Sandwiched between the Atlantic and the Cape Fear River, Kure Beach extends south to the entrance of the Fort Fisher State Historic Site at the tip of New Hanover County. It’s easy to drive onto a car ferry for the half-hour ride to visit the charming historic town of Southport. Once there, we enjoyed a dockside seat and a delicious seafood (shrimp for me) lunch at the Fishy Fishy Café. I loved the all-American small-town feel of the restored homes and majestic oaks.
On Kure Beach, the shoreline sand has been recently replenished and is nice and wide, with dunes protecting the homes. Since it’s after Labor Day, lifeguard stands have been taken in for the winter and there weren’t too many people around this breezy afternoon. A few people were fishing, kids playing in the surf, and one lone surfer-gal. I was content to walk on the edge of the surf; for me the water was chilly, and I could feel a gentle undertow. (I’m a bathtub-warm, Gulf-coast girl). Walking along the waters’ edge of any beach is one of my favorite things in the world, and it was a perfect way to end a day.
After another delicious meal (crab cake, this time), we took an evening walk on the old wooden Kure Beach Pier. Originally built in 1923, the 711-foot pier is privately owned and is the oldest fishing pier on the East Coast. Filled with hopeful fisher-folks casting lines, you gotta love the pier slogan “Man! You should’ve been here last week!”
I couldn’t imagine what people were doing when I saw them searching the dark shore with flashlights. Turns out, some were catching sand fleas for bait, and others looking for shark teeth. If I had more time and a good light, I would’ve happily joined the hunt for shark teeth.
Maybe next time.
Rhode Island is one of our favorite places. We were so happy to return after a Covid-induced hiatus and even more pleased to be able to celebrate a good friend’s special birthday. Today I am sharing a few snaps from this wonderful visit. The pics above and below are from the iconic, historic, New York Yacht Club.
I do believe I ate my weight in lobster, but somehow, never took a picture – I guess I was just that anxious to tear into the meals. RI oysters are my favs and I managed quite a few of those as well. And no trip to Narragansett and Newport is complete without visits to Flo’s Clam Shack, the Matunuck Oyster Bar, the historic Coast Guard House, or Belle’s Cafe in the Newport Shipyard.
Since part of this trip was a special birthday celebration, I spent some quality time with my friend Sarah helping set up for events. We had so much fun enhancing floral arrangements.
Nothing is lovelier than a sunny day on the Rhode Island coast.
I like value for my money, but not necessarily a bargain at the expense of other things. Comfort and convenience are very important to me. As an older couple driving ourselves around Iceland, I wanted to be sure we were safe, rested, well-fed, and had as little travel-related stress as possible.
First Task, Get a Good Car.
I selected an automatic with 4-wheel drive. My husband was doing the driving and is very comfortable with a stick shift, and even though I can also drive a stick (it’s been a while), I thought an automatic would be more relaxing. The 4-wheel drive was in case we encountered any of Iceland’s famous unpaved F-roads. The weather conditions we enjoyed were good and although we were on many gravel roads, the 4-wheel drive was not needed. I also opted to get GPS and a wi-fi hotspot. I know many bargain drivers opt for the hot spot and use car-play, but it was nice to have the GPS on while I looked up other info on my phone.
We also wanted an SUV and recommend Fara (ask for Andrea). They are a local family-owned company and really great to deal with. Don’t use Guide to Iceland to get your car. They were extremely difficult and frustrating to deal with. They are not based in Iceland, and do not answer questions correctly or efficiently; if you try to call them, you will be speaking to someone in Bangladesh. Ignore their impressive web-based marketing presence and try to go directly to the source whenever possible. I, regrettably, broke my own rule for direct booking.
Make Your Arrival Day Count.
Planes land in Iceland very early in the morning so you need a plan for how to spend that first day. Many head for the Blue Lagoon, which is about 20 minutes from the airport. We stayed at the Blue Lagoon to relax at the end of our trip. I knew we would probably be tired from the overnight flight (it’s not as easy as it used to be to sleep on a plane). I arranged for a private guide to pick us up at the airport and take us to the Golden Triangle. This allowed us to be driven around the first day, see some famous Icelandic sites, and have the opportunity to become oriented to Icelandic culture. We were very pleased with our guide from Tours by Locals. They offer a variety of tour options, and you can read bios and reviews to select your guide.
Time is a Valuable Asset.
The next day we explored Reykjavik on our own. On the morning we were ready to start driving, we arranged for the car to be brought to us at our hotel. Otherwise, we would’ve had to return to the airport which is 45 minutes away and not in the direction we were going. There was an extra charge to bring the car into town, but I felt the time saved (about 2 hours) was more valuable.
I chose to stay in the nicest hotels I could find, and once you are away from Reykjavik and the South Coast, there aren’t that many. Book well in advance.
Our Ring Road Itinerary:
- Reykjavik
- Golden Triangle
- Snaefellsnes Peninsula
- Husafell
- Siglufjorour
- Husavik
- Lake Myvatn area
- Diamond Circle
- Egilsstadir
- Breiodalsvik
- Hofn
- Hvolsvollur
- Grindavik
Icelandic Travel Truisms:
- Driving is not difficult if you are a sane, logical person
- A clockwise route is best, in my opinion, keeping you on the inside of the rail-less mountain curves
- Although dramatic, the roads through the mountains aren’t that high; usually, we were under 2,000’
- One-lane tunnels and bridges can cause some anxiety
- Buying gas is the most difficult hurdle. It’s no joke you need a card with a working pin number. Our debit card with pin did not work and we had to use a credit card with a pin (which incurs a surcharge). Glad we took both. If you don’t have a pin, get one ahead of time, it can take more than a week to process at some banks.
- During summer months of extended daylight, blackout drapes are rarely 100% effective
- Some bathroom sinks are like kids’ play-sinks, and often sinks are outfitted with fixed open drains, making doing a bit of handwash laundry a challenge
- I never found a hotel laundry service in the north
- Take a face/head net if you are going to Lake Myvatn area or Dettifoss, you will thank me later
- Open showers are trendy – I hate them, particularly when it’s cold
- They seem to love the open closet concept here
- Don’t expect American TV news (maybe that’s for the best); we saw CNN one night
- Wi-Fi service was good almost everywhere
- I activated my Verizon Global plan for $10 a day and had good service
- Accept the fact you will never master even one word of the language
- Can’t go wrong with the seafood
- They do eat horse . . . horse tartare anyone?
- Only one toll tunnel still exists (near Akureyri); you need to pay by app- ahead of time
- You don’t need cash – everyone takes credit cards, even for pay toilets
- Pay credit card bills in Icelandic Krona (ISK) when given the currency option, it will be the most economical
- Buy souvenirs and gifts at the airport when you leave. Once out of Reykjavik interesting shops are hard to come by. I didn’t buy much: chocolates, stuffed toys for the grandkids, and silica crème at the Blue Lagoon (also at the airport).
Don’t Go to the Airport Early.
When you are flying out, there is no point in getting to the airport early, the counters don’t open until 2-3 hours before flights are scheduled, and from Reykjavik back to the US they leave late in the day. Self-service check-in kiosks are useless if you don’t have your international boarding pass (which you must get at check-in since it’s international). Until you get that boarding pass you are stuck on the first floor. There is one place to grab a snack, one grocery store, and some uncomfortable seating on that level. The second floor has all the shops, a food court, and the nice Icelandair Saga Lounge.
Would’ve, Should’ve . . .We managed to get around Iceland easily and check off the boxes for everything on our advance must-see list. In retrospect, one thing I wish I had done was allow enough time to see the historic Keldur Turf Houses on the South Coast. We were in the area too early (they’re open 10-5); it would be an interesting hour or two.
I hear the Lava Museum is also well done and worth a visit. We canceled our planned ATV tour due to our one day of bad weather. The same day, weather impacted our visit to the famous Black Sand Beach at Reynisfjara. The wind and waves were really whipping. I’m sorry I was not more resilient and willing to look around a bit more, but I couldn’t wait to get away from the blowing sand and back in the car.
And finally, if we had more time, I would’ve loved to get down to water level in Studlagil Canyon to be up close and personal with those incredible basalt formations. To do that we needed to get to the other side and have time to walk quite a few kilometers; 5 each way from where you park (10 total). From what I could see, the walk looks fairly flat. Anyone interested in exploring this area should allow at least 4 hours.
Resources & Blogsources:
Besides talking with friends who had previously been to Iceland, I read a lot of travel articles, googled dozens of sites and topics, and used travel books to prepare for and plan this trip. Books I found useful were Top 10 Iceland, which was great for visuals and a good overview, Fodor’s Essential Iceland for planning and route-specific info, and Rick Steves Iceland, which was my go-to reference during the trip. The walking tours and driving routes were indispensable. Be sure to check the publication dates before you order to get the most current up-to-date copy. The Michelin road map I purchased was, surprisingly, seriously outdated (Iceland has added and improved routes). Although useful for planning purposes, I would not recommend it.
The Facebook group “ICELAND – tips for travelers” had some really valuable specific tips from members and lots of inspiring gorgeous pics. Other bloggers also provided insightful perspectives, interesting ideas, and much appreciated direct follow-up. I’d like to thank four in particular: Lawrence from “Finding the Universe” was very helpful with my early planning and tipped me off to the wonderful reindeer safari. Jurga from “Full Suitcase” shared detailed location and route information and answered some of my logistical questions. Katie from “Two Wandering Soles” wrote a very informative series about the ins and outs of car rental in Iceland, providing must-have info for all of us visiting drivers. The best summary anywhere of whale watching options in Husavik was posted by Liz from “With Wonder and Whimsy”.
Safe Travels!
