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Fez, Morocco: A Living Tapestry 

I loved the comment in my post about Casablanca, that said the people in the corridor looked like they were making a drug deal. I guess anything is possible in Morocco. And, anything is possible with my content since I am posting, for the first time, strictly from my phone. So please forgive any irregularities.

Jewish History

We arrived in Fez last night and woke up to another rainy day. But it didn’t dampen our spirits as we set out with our Audley Travel-arranged guide to explore our second Imperial City and its UNESCO sites.

We headed to the Royal Palace of Fez and then literally across the street to what was the Jewish quarter. There is a lot of Jewish history here, including a big migration after the Spanish Inquisition in the 1400s. This area is now occupied by non-Jewish residents and only a small (very successful) Jewish population remains in Morocco.

The old synagogue has been restored as a museum.
Artisans in Action

It was interesting to visit a certified co-op where they make the famous Fez blue clay pottery and mosaics. That’s about when today’s weather was worst and it made it very easy to stay indoors and shop.

I love jigsaw puzzles…but imagine doing this. The artisan is piecing together a custom ordered mosaic table top for a customer in Brazil. He does the design from memory, and from the back side of the table.
Medina Meanderings

The highlight for me was wandering through the narrow streets and courtyards of the old Medina and seeing just some of the hundreds of tiny shops lining the souks. An incredible array of smells give you clues to what’s up ahead (or just past). Out of nowhere, healthy large trees are growing. There are no cars, but hand carts, bicycles, motorbikes, and even donkeys will cause you to jump to the side. And there are cats everywhere! This is a cat-loving country (and they also conveniently control the rodent population).

Souks are organized by category and this afternoon we had a sample. We were, of course still with our knowledgeable local guide, a must in this crazy maze. Speaking of samples, he stopped along the way and got us several tasty treats, including sweet pastries, fried sardines, and a delicious potato-filled dumpling I need to identify!

We’re in olive country.
BTW – Rose Water and Orange Water are also used prolifically here. I’m not a big fan of the Rose Water scent or taste.
Some passages are narrow, and dark.

Everyone who visits here sees the tannery, the country’s oldest. It’s incredibly hard work to clean, process and dye the goat, lamb, sheep, and cow skins. They gave us a bunch of mint to smell and ward off the odors, but they weren’t bad this day. I recognized this site from The Amazing Race.

Only men work the vats, which are filled with liquid up to the height of a man’s neck, and can hold 20-50 hides depending on which type are being dyed.

Abdullah, at his namesake Thé & Café, made us unique and amazing mint tea, in the same cramped upstairs shop as his father and grandfather before him. The most surprising of the many mints and herbs included – absinthe.

Abdullah with Sarah & Karen.
Besaha (to your health)!
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