We will be in Tokyo more than a day, but I will start this tale with our first day being (mostly) awake. It was a wonderful day. Temps were in the 50s, with brilliant blue skies, and gusty winds in the afternoon. Today our focus was history and culture.

Good fortune was with us when we were matched up with guide Tomoko. Booked through our hotel (The Palace Hotel Tokyo), she was a gem. Friendly and kind, Tomoko spoke perfect English due to attending college in the US. She was very knowledgeable and interesting. I feel like we had the best introduction to Japan possible.

To start with, we learned how to navigate the expansive subway system. Or at least how it should be done. There are 9 lines with 280 stations and so many combinations, it can be overwhelming. It’s clean, safe, on time, and runs every few minutes. NYC take note: they have these wonderful barriers with sliding gates between the platform and tracks – so no one is getting pushed in front of a train here.

A morning visit to an older fish market, Tsukiji, was fun. In addition to the fresh fish, live shellfish, and processed fish, I was surprised at the array of meats, vegetables, and fruits. The strawberries looked so amazing, I finally had to buy some and, wow, they may have been the best we’ve ever had.  So naturally sweet, it did not seem possible. Tomoko readily explained the many items we did not recognize as well as the history of the area and such markets. She had special insight since her father (now retired) was one of the special chefs who prepared the very poisonous Puffer Fish for gourmet dinners. Dining on one of those fish will set you back quite a few hundred dollars!

Our big goal this morning was to delve into the world of Shintoism and Buddhism. We visited the Fukagawa Fudo Buddhist Temple for a Buddhist Fire Ritual called Gomataki. The symbolism was interesting to learn and the ritual fascinating. Clearly a more local experience, without crowds of tourists, we were mesmerized by the ceremonies to cleanse obsessions and grant wishes. There were chimes and chanting but also incredible drumming, unlike anything we’d ever seen. Of course, no photos allowed.  

Afterwards, we headed over to the Shinto Shrine, Tomioka Hackiman, and learned more about how the two religions differ and often overlap.

We had a quick, but delicious lunch of chicken Yakitori and then made our way to the iconic Asakusa Senso-Ji Temple, the oldest Buddhist Temple in Tokyo. It’s famous, picturesque, and incredibly crowded with tourists and locals. It was a surprise to see hordes of young Japanese girls dressed in rented kimonos channeling the past and posing for pictures. The famous walk on the way to the Temple, Nakamise-dori, is lined with stalls and shops selling souvenir trinkets, and this time of year decorated with artificial cherry blossom branches. Streets surrounding the area have massive buildings housing every type of edible Japanese food you can imagine (and a few you can’t). I held out for some refreshing cherry blossom ice cream later in the day.

On our own In the evening (with some guidance from Tomoko), we headed out to the Shinjuku area famous for neon displays, an active red-light district, and Golden Gai bar area. We ate a simple meal that included a delicious dish of garlic fried rice. I don’t know why we can’t get anything that good back home. We walked around the Golden Gai’s narrow alleys, packed with tiny bars, each with room for a bartender and just a few stools at a narrow counter. The evening was young and the crowds of 20 & 30-somethings were just beginning to roll in. After walking about nine incredible miles, we called it a successful day and headed “home.”

Of note:  For years guides in Japan had to go through rigorous multi-year training and certification. Since the pandemic, and a current shortage of guides, the government has loosened the criteria and allowed many to guide without the previously required training.  So, beware with whom you schedule.  I can easily recommend Tomoko as a guide to anyone visiting Tokyo. She is government-certified, with 17 years of experience, and a native of Tokyo. Reach her at hiragi8@gmail.com.