First a Sidebar: Studying the map on our approach to Wichita, I realized we were within about 30 miles from the 1888 birthplace of my paternal Grandfather. And so, we began our day by heading southeast of Wichita to the once thriving settlement of Rosalia, Kansas.
There isn’t much left of this unincorporated town, mostly a few dirt streets and ramshackle and/or closed-up buildings. But there was a school and a post office. I decided to try my luck in the post office to see what I might learn. And I did have luck. The post office is only open two hours each morning, the woman working was also named Karen, and the single customer was very helpful. In the end, I had learned about the town’s oil boom days, and how it became a mecca for two physicians competing for male patients with their revolutionary goat “gland” treatment (an early “Viagra”, some things never change). The woman I met took me to her sister’s home across the street and they rounded-up, and presented me with, an extra copy of a book about the town’s history! Amazing.
After our farewells to our new friends in Rosalia, we headed northwest through Kansas to North Platte, Nebraska. The drive was straight and uncrowded, the scenery rural with green low-rising hills dotted with oil rigs, cattle ranches and wind farms. For hours it was just us and the farm equipment on the road. We saw trucks ferrying the incredibly long blades for the wind turbines, and others with huge replacement wheels for trains.
The occasional road kill (armadillos won the count) was no hunger deterrent, and we made a quick stop for lunch in Bob Dole’s hometown of Russell. After Stockton, KS when you came over a rise you could see ahead for miles and miles and the rusty soil color gave way to a sandy-color.
Although you couldn’t tell, altitude was slightly increasing all along, and North Platte was at 2800’. We went directly to the Golden Spike Tower for a view of the world’s largest railroad yard which primarily services the Union Pacific railroad. The TV show “Hell on Wheels” was based on the construction of this site in the 1860’s as the center of the railroad world. All trains heading east/west and north/south went through North Platte. The eight story Tower has two observation decks, one inside and one open-air, as well as displays and videos about rail history. Check it out at: www.GoldenSpikeTower.com
Union Pacific Railroad’s massive Bailey Yard covers 2,850 acres and is eight miles long and over one mile wide. The yard operates 24 hours a day and handles 10,000 railroad cars and about 150 trains every day with an average length of 137 cars. Locomotives are also overhauled and maintained.
Retired railroad workers are on hand to answer questions and fill in details. My husband was in heaven, as he learned about what it was like to work for the railroad, details of the yard’s operations and even facts behind the hobos who still travel the rails.
Last trivia answers:
Which capitol building is taller, the US or Texas? TEXAS
How high is the star at the center of the rotunda in the Texas capitol building? 218’
At the Oklahoma City National Memorial, two large “gates” frame the reflecting pool. The one shown here says 9:01 and it’s twin, 9:03. the bomb was at 9:02, at the location of the pool.
“Chairs” represent the 168 lives lost. Their placement on the site of the Federal Building, represents its nine floors and where each victim was located.
Today was the longest drive of our trip. It actually wasn’t bad. We headed north out of Austin, glad to be ahead of their next wave of expected rain, towards a foggy Dallas.
In Dallas we saw the site of the JFK assassination. We couldn’t remember seeing it before (so that’s just the same as never doing it) and it was another sobering moment on what is turning into an appropriate Memorial week tour.
On the road in Oklahoma.
The landscape in north Texas was pretty, with gently rolling hills. Since the official speed limit is 70 and the traffic light, we made good time.
Crossing the Red River into Oklahoma, I learned it really is red. In contrast, the hills were even greener as we passed ranch after farm, etc. We ventured off the interstate and took a more rural route into Norman, home of the University of Oklahoma. It’s a very pretty, clean, organized campus. The blue skies were glorious and the temps in perfect 70s. These photos of OU are for you, Linda.
In Oklahoma City we visited the Memorial of the Alfred Murrah Federal Building bombing. This tragedy seems even more unbelievable because it happened in this place – seemingly so perfectly, and safely, middle-American.
After passing more ranches and dozens of pumping oil rigs, we reached our destination of Wichita, Kansas.
Tonight, I won’t end with any trivia, just a few photos and these words from the Oklahoma City National Memorial:
We come here to remember
Those who were killed, those who survived and those changed forever.
May all who leave here know the impact of violence.
May this memorial offer comfort, strength, peace, hope and serenity.
This part of Texas has been having torrential rain, tornadoes and floods. We’ve been closely monitoring local weather as we make plans and have been lucky. We stayed off interstates and headed towards Bandera (known as the “Cowboy City” and appropriately hosting a Memorial weekend rodeo), and then onward to Comfort. Comfort bills itself as “An Antique Town” and I thought that might refer to the vintage of the place, but actually, I saw quite a few really enticing-looking antique shops. But, between Sunday hours and an unenthused travel partner, we had to move on. We continued on the Texas Hill Country Trail into the quaint German town of Fredericksburg in search of some good brisket for lunch (which we did find).
Texas Hill Country.
This is a beautiful part of Texas, gently rolling hills, lush green fields (probably from all the recent rains), wildflowers and lots of ranches with cattle and goats, but no oil wells. I loved seeing the names of the ranches and wish I had made note of them all along; Indian Springs, Rattlesnake, and Happy H are three that come to mind.
The area near Fredericksburg is home to much of the Texas wine country. I know there is also at least one bourbon distillery tucked in among the wineries.
Luckenbach music fest!
We just had to go by Luckenbach, made famous by the Waylon Jennings song, this day hosting a big music fest in their dance hall. That’s pretty much the entire town, the dance hall. The Trail continued, leading us through Johnson City, home of LBJ and finally into Austin.
The weather was cloudy but nice in Austin, and expected to turn ugly the following midday. We seized the opportunity to see the University of Texas campus (I still prefer the other UT!), as well as explore the major areas of commerce, shops, music and restaurants. We eventually worked our way down to the area known as SOCO (South of Congress) and had dinner. Austin has a great reputation as a major foodie town with more than 3,000 restaurants. We managed to dine at one I considered overpriced and overrated (even though highly recommended).
Our second day in Austin was destined to be dedicated to the mundane chore of getting laundry done (a feat seemingly beyond the ability of our hotel’s for the last four nights), reading and maybe getting to a movie. We did manage to get a nice walk in during the morning hours, checking out the beautiful state capitol building.
Texas State Capitol.
It was no surprise when we entered the building we had to go through a scanner. What was a surprise is that I even had to take the Kleenex out of my pocket. They even wanted used Kleenex . . . but I threw that away. The female Ranger told me very sternly, “Mam, we don’t just screen for metal.”
Our movie intentions were abandoned when the weather kept getting worse. Even as a Floridian, I’ve never experienced rain any harder or as many lightning strikes (68K+ in one hour). The newscasters here are talking about “unprecedented flooding” and we are just happy to be back in the beautiful, historic Hotel Ella, which is fortunately equipped with a nice restaurant and a bar, which we are headed to now . . . .
Hotel Ella, originally completed in 1900. Ella Wooten asked the Vanderbilts who did their columns for the Biltmore in Asheville – and gave up a European vacation to pay for them. Neiman Marcus did the decor for $10,000.
Daily Trivia Questions (answers next post):
Which capitol building is taller, the US or Texas?
How high is the star at the center of the rotunda in the Texas capitol building?
Last post’s trivia answers:
What state was David Crockett from? Tennessee
How long is the River Walk? The downtown portion is approximately 5 miles. New extensions, however, are returning more of the river (previously straightened) to its natural bends and flow, almost doubling the length of the public access
Well, our phones just gave us our first emergency tornado warning. It was the loudest sound I have ever heard coming from my phone.
Fortunately, we had dinner in our hotel tonight and planned to stay close due to the forecast. The local weather forecasting is amazing. They have interrupted stations with continuous coverage and updates. The radar, live shots and detailed reporting is extremely thorough. Power is out already in portions of this county, but our computers and phones are charged and ready.
Despite this, we are really enjoying San Antonio.
The River Walk experience is near perfect – almost Disneyesque.
It’s fun and tranquil all at the same time. In our first 30 seconds, we encountered a wedding in a beautiful setting right outside our hotel. Its Memorial Day weekend so it’s a lively, friendly crowd. But unlike New Orleans, it’s not a rowdy crowd. There are lots of families and young couples, and we’ve seen dozens of young Air Force cadets (with their parents), newly “graduated” from the nearby Lackland Air Force Base.
If you look among all the touristy Mexican restaurants, there is some serious fine dining in this area as well as around town.
We are staying right on the River Walk, so it’s very convenient.
Just a short walk, and a few steps up, and you are in a vibrant downtown. I’m sure the kids are thrilled to see the horse-drawn buggies all lit-up like Cinderella’s carriage.
The Alamo, originally the Mission San Antonio de Valero, was constructed on this site beginning in 1724. The famous 13-day battle that took the lives of James Bowie and David Crockett took place in 1836.
We’ve taken in the Alamo (within walking distance), and also driven to see the other four missions the Spanish established in this area. The five missions together comprise the largest concentration of colonial missions in North America. Run by Franciscan Priests, they are all close to the river, with the farthest about 12 miles from downtown.
San Antonio also has a large Historic District, the King William, just south of downtown. The area has beautifully restored homes, some palatial and others small, fanciful cottages. It is a charming area, definitely worth seeing.
We are impressed with San Antonio, it seems to be a very livable city with friendly, likeable residents.
And, the weather crisis seems to have passed . . . at least until tomorrow.
Mission San Juan Capistrano.
Mission Espada.
Mission San Jose.
Mission Concepcion.
Daily Trivia Questions (answers next post):
What state was David Crockett from?
How long is the River Walk?
Last post’s trivia answers:
What two countries were not occupied by the Germans during WWII? Switzerland and Spain
On what date did Germany unconditionally surrender in WWII? May 7, 1945
