Totally by accident, we recently managed to dine in two White Horse Taverns, on opposite sides of the Atlantic.
Newport (Rhode Island, USA) and Chilham (Kent, England) are very different places. Besides their name, they share historic recognition praise, and are both listed as historic sites.
Newport | National Historic Landmark
“America’s Oldest Tavern” in Newport, dates back to days in a busy British Colony, initially built as a home in 1652 and converted to a tavern 21 years later. Early owner William Mayes was a known pirate and not very popular with colony officials. His sister Mary Mayes Nichols and her husband took over as innkeepers and kept the White Horse Tavern in the family for most of the next 200 years.
The very distressed building was saved by the Newport Preservation Society and eventually turned over to private owners. It is well-known as a perfect example of 17th-century Colonial American architecture. Today it’s a more upscale restaurant serving a varied menu.
Chilham | National Heritage Building
This quaint pub, the White Horse Tavern, is right at home on the town square of picturesque Chilham. Located across from Chilham Castle/Manor (now a school), the tavern is surrounded by wood-timbered Tudor and Jacobean architecture. It looks like a movie set. This White Horse is 550 years old! Imagine who you might have seen taking a meal here in the 16th century. Probably built with timbers salvaged from wrecked ships; you can find some significant markings if you look closely (or ask the friendly barkeep). Even better – it’s reported to be haunted. During renovations in 1956, two male skeletons were found in shallow graves just under the kitchen floor. Deemed ‘ancient bones’ they are now buried in the churchyard.
The Chilham site is also dog-friendly, and resident pup Colt joined us for lunch. He is a sweetheart. A 9-year-old Alaskan Malamute, Colt looks like he’s benefited from quite a few handouts.
A few other interesting points of interest include the Norman castle keep built for Henry II in 1174 on the Castle/Manor grounds. St. Marys Church is on the North Downs Way National Trail and is said to be the burial place of St. Augustine.
Meals can be so much more interesting when enjoyed surrounded by history.
The White Cliffs of Dover were a wonderful sight on a beautiful day.
I often plan something to do in that twilight zone between an early morning landing after an overnight flight. Too early to check into the hotel (besides we want to get on a new time schedule asap), no desire to sleep away the day, but maybe not at our sharpest . . . . I have found a great solution is to arrange a private guide. This way we get picked up at the airport, our bags are safely stowed for the day, and after our adventure, we’re delivered to our hotel.
Today we aimed to get up close to the White Cliffs of Dover, something my husband really wanted to do. Most of the time, he goes along with everything I want to do – so I wanted to make this happen.
We had a bit of a drive to get to the coast which was ideal for a snooze or chatting with our entertaining driver (guess who did what).
The Cliffs were gorgeous. We saw them from two perspectives, ground level and on the rim. The ground-level experience was a country park created at the foot of Shakespeare Cliff, with fill from the creation of the Chunnel between England and France. Previously, the base of the cliffs dropped right into the sea, but in this park, now with Samphire Hoe Country Park, there is a gorgeous 74-acre (30-hectare) nature preserve with room to walk.
With the English Channel on one side and the towering cliffs on the other, we shared the breezy middle ground with grazing sheep, cows, and just a few other scattered human visitors. Visitors walk easily through chalk grassland and sea buckthorn scrub. Spoiler alert, this was my favorite perspective.
The park has Shakespeare to thank for its name. In 1606 he wrote about the cliffs and the Rock Samphire wild plant in King Lear. (At one time it was collected from the shear cliffs, pickled, and served as a side dish). A “hoe” is a piece of land that protrudes into the sea.
Passing through the town of Dover, we headed into the British National Trust Park “White Cliffs of Dover”. There is a trail all along the edge of the cliffs. There is no guardrail. It was breezy. The path was uneven. Need I say more? We saw enough to be very satisfied. A bonus was the view of Dover Castle ‘guarding’ the coast.
The local expression says it all – ‘brilliant.’
Of note:
The Port of Dover has been in existence since Roman times, for more than 2,000 years, and is the closest port between England and Europe. It serves as the largest ferry terminal in the country in addition to handling over £100 billion of goods annually, providing 10,000+ regional jobs.
I was really surprised to see all the vineyards in the area. Kent is a center of England’s burgeoning wine industry. Warmer climates in England and wetter conditions in France have resulted in French companies buying land here. A few nights later at dinner with some good friends, we had the opportunity to sample a bottle of English sparkling wine (and a bottle of French champagne). The English was the winner!
Preface
I was working on this post in late September when the world stopped for all of us in Western North Carolina with the arrival of Hurricane Helene. It has been described as destruction of biblical proportions and it sure seems so to me.
The folks who live in Western Carolina are a resolute group and I have been moved by the stories of neighbor helping neighbor, which has been the primary lifeline for so many.
Churches are important here and they have become centers for assistance throughout the region. I don’t know the status of the lovely buildings featured in this post, but do know their spirit will prevail. I am posting as a tribute and with a prayer.
The Legacy of Little Churches
No matter your religious background, you can’t help but be charmed by the beautiful little churches that dot the landscape throughout our country. And nowhere is more lovely than the hills and valleys of the Blue Ridge mountains.
For more than 100 years, these small houses of worship have played a significant role in the history, legend, and lore of the rural communities they serve(d).
In this post, I’d like to share a few of my neighborhood treasures in the High Country of Western North Carolina.
St Mathews
Traveling along a rural road from Boone NC to Todd you could pass by the tiny St Mathews Church and might not give it a second look. At this point abandoned, the church played an important role in this community 100 years ago. As transportation options allowed families to spread and people to go farther and join larger congregations, the small Episcopal church saw a declining enrollment. In 2018, a group of dedicated residents, led by the efforts of a retired Episcopal minister, worked to restore the church and give it a new life as a community center. I can only think that the pandemic played a role leading to its current state of abandonment.
Pineola Presbyterian
I’ve driven by this church dozens of times, located at the junction of NC Highways 181 and 221 just outside Linville. No one can seem to tell me much about its history except that it was organized in 1898 and this church built in 1927. At the moment it seems to have a temporary pastor, with no obvious phone or website. They are holding Sunday services. It is a small building with absolutely beautiful stained-glass windows and I would love to know more about their origin and if they were part of the original building. My quest continues . . .
St Johns
I wrote about this little gem a few years ago. Feel free to follow the link to read more about the “Little Church in the Woods.” In Valle Crucis, it’s owned by the Trinity Episcopal Church and like several others in the area, only operates during summer months.
All Saints Episcopal Mission
Likely the most famous of the little churches in this area, this Episcopal church in Linville has been featured nationally in magazines and newspapers. Another church with a summer schedule, they bring in an impressive array of guest Episcopal clergy, active and retired, from around the state and other parts of the country.
The building is storybook charming and maintained impeccably. Kneelers and alter fixtures feature gorgeous handmade needlework of local landscape scenes. Dating from 1910, the chapel was built in memory of Mary Savage MacRae, sister of the MacRae brothers who founded Linville. Mary’s half-sister Agnes MacRae Parsley started the building fund with proceeds from the sale of a lot to her by her black childhood nurse.
The church was designed by Henry Bacon, a New York architect famous for designing the Lincoln Memorial in Washington DC. He also designed several of the “cottages” in the area. Construction is of chestnut timber with chestnut bark shingles, inside and out. Sadly, the chestnut trees are long gone having died out from disease years ago. The stained glass over the front door is original.
Crossnore Presbyterian
Known as “The Miracle in the Hills” church, it owes its heritage to a small group of worshipers who began meeting in the early 1900s. by 1916, a small chapel was built on donated property, and in 1918 became an official Presbyterian church. Work on the current church building began 100 years ago in 1924 and was completed in spring 1926. Linville River rock was used throughout – with 200 loads hauled up the hills by horse and wagon. Work was done by Will Franklin, a local stonemason and carpenter who could neither read nor write, but was able to follow the architectural plans from an architect located hours away in Greensboro. Known as Uncle Will, Mr. Franklin’s folk art touches and craftsmanship is very evident in the details. His beautiful rock seating and columns are “topped off” by an impressive herringbone pattern of chestnut bark used in the ceiling. My photos don’t do any of it justice. At this time, the church is undergoing a major and careful restoration. Because the site is listed in the National Register of Historic Places, rules are strict and have proved challenging. The stone originally used as roof material is no longer available in the United States and current work includes retrofitting for climate control, lighting, and ADA requirements. Replacing the roof alone will cost about $500,000. But solutions have been worked out, and restoration progress is underway.
The Reverend Kathy Campbell has been paster since 2009 and proudly leads a robust congregation with a very healthy agenda of community involvement and
My Crossnore Chapter of the DAR (Daughters of the American Revolution for my non-US readers) meets at the church and that is how I was privileged to tour the interior and meet the delightful Pastor Campbell. I was also fortunate to visit the adjacent charming cemetery, nestled in the woods. It’s a beautiful final resting place for many local notable citizens, including Dr. Mary Martin Sloop a founder of the church and the nearby Crossnore school.
Edgemont Baptist Church in Collettsville
When I saw this church, in the Wilson Creek area, it was still active. It has appeared in photos dating from the early 1900s making it over 100 years old. I don’t have more info and fear for the area which was devastated by flooding in 1916 and now, sadly, again. It survived the 1916 catastrophe, so I am ever hopeful.
While recently attending a perfect wedding for the son of one of our closest friends – we found ourselves in Troy, NY. I heard a lot about the area from my late close friend Linda. Her daughter attended the exclusive Emma Willard School for women and Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute (RPI), both in Troy. I was still unprepared to find a city so beautifully quirky and quaint.
Ready Made Movie Set
The city has had its ups and downs through the last century and today encompasses a largely intact 19th century streetscape making it a perfect stand-in for New York City during the Gilded Age. It has led some to dub it “Hollywood on the Hudson.”
Most recently The Gilded Age, an HBO/Max production, has filmed here. Just last month crew and cast were back in town filming season three of the Julian Fellows series starring Cynthia Nixon. They throw sand on the now-paved streets, bring in the horse-drawn carriages and roll cameras.
Farmers Market Extraordinaire
Every Saturday from May through October downtown streets are blocked off from 9 AM – 2 PM for a massive Farmers Market. The Market brochure was the best map I could find of downtown and we used it to start exploring. You can find something for everyone: food, produce, gifts, distilled spirits, crafts, and more.
Historic News
On the quirky side, Troy was the home of Samuel Wilson – the man who was the original Uncle Sam, now such an iconic symbol of our country. In Troy, you will see many things named in his honor and a large statue in the riverside park.
The city needs a good historic map, and I never found one. We did not visit the Hart-Cluett Museum/ Rensselaer Historic Society since their hours were not compatible with our schedule. They do offer the single walking tour of historic downtown, at 10 AM on some mornings. You can see this block in season three of the Gilded Age, including their neighbor building, Paine Castle.
The Troy Savings Bank is now a Music Hall. We came across a lone violinist sitting outside playing lilting Celtic tunes during the Farmer’s Market.
A Novel Retro-fit
Heading towards a majestic white steeple we found the First Baptist Church, where the aforementioned Uncle Sam served as a Trustee from 1808 until 1817. His company supplied the brick to build the original building. Another oddity was noticing the Greek letters for Phi Gamma Delta over the impressive entrance, under the restored 177’ church spire. A little research revealed the frat bought the church in 2013 and has repurposed it as a fraternity house. The FIJIs have had a rocky time of it – being thrown off the RPI campus for a few years (along with a few other frats) for some unsanctioned partying – apparently not in their new home.
Finding a Hidden Jewel
A quest to get my ring cleaned eventually led us to Romanation Jewelers & Watchmakers on Third Street. We had a great time chatting with James and Janice Cook who bought the shop from Mr. Romanation. James began working in the store as a kid and as he says “never left.’ The massive and beautiful safe is still in use and the original register is now used for making change. A relic from the past, the register can only go as high as $999.99. Not workable for a contemporary jewelry store.
The original owner was Ukrainian, reflecting a significant immigrant population of days past. Janice gave me a good tip for lunch and we headed over to the Whistling Kettle on Broadway for a tasty meal. (I will never be a food blogger since I keep forgetting to take pics of plates before I dig in). I had a very yummy scone sandwich.
Why “Collar City”?
Broadway has several restaurants and at one end features an elegant, dramatic stone staircase built in 1904 to connect downtown to the RPI campus. Originally named Albany Street, the other end is at the riverfront, where boats used to dock.
Historically an iron and textile hub, Troy became known as “Collar City” partly because the detachable collar was invented here. In 1827, Hannah Montague grew tired of washing her husband’s entire shirt, when only the collar was dirty. So, the resourceful lady solved the problem with her new invention. Clothing manufacturing was the city’s largest industry in the mid-1900s.
A Tiffany Masterpiece
St. Paul’s Episcopal Church dates from 1795 when George Washington was President. The current church, built in 1828, is its second home. The Tiffany Co remodled the entire interior in the 1890s and many believe it is their “greatest masterpiece.” We made two attempts to get inside the church but sadly failed. In etrospect, we should’ve gone for a Sunday service. Peeking through the windows and watching the church videos will have to suffice.
Oh, and that wedding I mentioned, it was held in the historic Franklin Plaza, where the first floor housed the Troy City National Bank, now repurposed as lovely event space. Congrats to Max & Maddie!
A final note: You won’t go hungry in Troy, we enjoyed:
Emry’s Garden (King St) – we dined outside
Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, River St – a famous local spot on the Hudson, lucky for us, they also had TVs so we could watch college football (currently blocked from the Direct TV in our hotel) – Go VOLS!
Nighthawk’s – for brunch
The Dutch Udder – ice cream, both hard and soft serve; several options for anyone who is gluten or dairy-free.
