It’s impossible for words to capture the feeling and quality of the beautiful Christmas Markets in Strasbourg, France. What’s exceptional and unique is the dramatic, over-the-top, décor on the buildings, in the shops, and draped across the streets. Every corner you turn offers a new visual treat, always something cuter, bigger, brighter or more fanciful. Day and night it’s amazing, and I’m glad I came back. It remains my favorite of the Christmas Markets.
Of course this year, things are just a bit different. France has heightened security due to the terrorist attacks a few weeks ago in Paris. They cancelled many public events as well as the Children’s and Three Magi Markets, blocked traffic into the inner city during market hours, cancelled tram stops within the market areas, and literally have police and gun-toting military everywhere. I don’t think we went five minutes (max) without seeing police. One fellow U.S. visitor witnessed them frisking a Santa yesterday, and today, we were blocked from getting back into our charming hotel, because police found an unattended shopping bag on the street. Thankfully, it turned out to be a false alarm, and we were comforted they were so vigilant.
Our hotel, the Cour du Corbeau, was built in the 1500s and welcomed kings, emperors and princes throughout the years.
Since the Alsace region flipped back and forth between French and German rule, the area is a wonderful mixture of cultures and now home to the European Parliament. To learn a little of the interesting local history, we took a boat cruise on the L’ill River which runs right through the city, creating an island where the old city is today.
We walked and walked, and then walked some more, visiting Petite France with its half-timbered houses (originally for those with syphilis) and all nine existing markets. The main market is at the Place de la Cathédrale with the backdrop of the beautiful Notre Dame.
The Cathedral Market is really fairly basic, with other, smaller markets featuring more elegant products, the guest country of Luxembourg, local charities, trees along with everything you could possibly need for decorating, and gourmet specialties of the area such as truffles, foie gras, cheese, wine, and pastries.
At night, we did it all again to see the lights. And what a spectacle. Every street different, with thousands and thousands of lights, stars, rings, snowflakes, gingerbread men, balls of color, angels and more. One street features nine Baccarat chandeliers, another can’t run lights across the street because of the electric trams, so they just lit every building in color, and those colors and patterns change continuously.
Weather-wise, it’s been brisk (30s and 40s), but dry.
I can truly say, for this Floridian, it’s beginning to feel a lot like Christmas.
Our favorite of the Strasbourg Markets.
The Notre Dame Cathedral.
It’s impossible to photograph the elaborate decorations on top of each of the 250+ booths at the Stuttgart Xmas Markets. Photos don’t do any of it justice. The crowds and the lighting just can’t be mastered with the iPhone camera I am using for this trip (decided not to haul the Nikon around the markets).
The booths of the Stuttgart Christmas Markets meander through the central part of this contemporary city, through an exclusive shopping district and around a few historical buildings that survived WWII. Along the way there is a large model train display, complete with a child-size train for kids to ride, a very busy ice rink, and of course, the requisite dozens of food and drink options.
I hesitate to even call these booths, because many are more like small pop-up stores. These structures are substantial and the fact the operators seriously compete for best decor honors is obvious. The lush greenery is all real and every one of the booths is different and unique. Although vendors sell the usual Xmas decorations, angels, candles and toys, oddly, this market also has items usually found at a home show, or maybe an infomercial (think devices to keep pots from over boiling and special chopping tools). Knives, spatulas, pots and bathroom cleaners notwithstanding, the lights and decorations produce a magical effect. Several mammoth Christmas trees add to the ambiance as does an Advent Calendar in the windows of City Hall.
Based on the massive crowds around every Gluhwein stand, I wonder just how much is consumed in Germany during the four market weeks . . .
A small section of the decorations atop a booth selling wild game food products.
To break away from the Catholic tradition of gift giving on St. Nicolas’ Day, December 6, Martin Luther (1483-1546) switched festivities in his home to Christmas Eve. He told his children the Christkind brought their gifts. The practice quickly took hold and spread throughout Nuremberg. The fictional gift-giver took form through the years and is represented by the Golden Angel today. Occasional visits by Christkind to the Children’s Christmas Market in Nuremberg is a huge attraction. A new “Angel” is selected every two years. We considered ourselves lucky to be in the area during one of her special appearances.
Once again, the rain stopped for us, this time just as our train pulled into Nuremberg. After 24 hours with no suitcase (!) I welcomed my cashmere sweaters and warm, comfortable boots (not to mention a few other things).
This is a beautiful, historic city and is home to a 400-yr old market that many others have been modeled after. It is big, lively, colorful and jam-packed with people of all ages. There seemed to be a Gluhwein stall every six feet. And the best Children’s Market I’ve seen. But a high point was found in the international section of the market, were we discovered a booth from the USA – Atlanta to be specific; I settled on hot cocoa with Jack Daniels, and my friend Sarah apple cider and Jack. Perfect.
